Maintain your Bucher DC hydraulic pump. follow this timeline and instructions to ensure properly working equipment.
Pump Maintenance Timeline
Every Two (2) Months:
- All ground connections should be inspected. Remove any corrosion rust.
- Battery cable connections should be inspected for corrosion.
- All electrical connections at power unit should be inspected for corrosion and cleanliness. Check tightness of nuts on motor stud and motor solenoid.
Every Three (3) Months:
- Oil level and fluid condition should be checked.
Every Six (6) Months:
- Inspect condition of all electrical wiring. Wire should be free from cracks or damage to insulation.
- Inspect condition of filler/breather cap. If foam is missing or dirty replace the cap.
- Oil should be changed yearly.
If you suspect that your pump needs more attention, review below on how to flush your pump.
Flush Your Pump
How to determine if you have water in the hydraulic fluid:
- The pump does not build up pressure.
- The hydraulic fluid starts looking milky or cloudy.
- Water will freeze, impeding flow in colder climates.
Flushing your pump:
- Disconnect the hoses. Place the disconnected hoses into a bucket or drain pan to collect the hydraulic fluid from the cylinder.
- Drain the cylinder. In order to drain the cylinder retract and extend the cylinder until all the fluid is removed. The fluid will exit the hoses removed in step 1.
- Remove the reservoir and empty the fluid. The reservoir is usually located on the pump.
- While you have the reservoir off, use a mild parts cleaner to clean the filters and the inside of the reservoir. Mild parts cleaner can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
- Pull the valve out of the pump and clean with parts cleaner as well, flushing the block. The cleaner will flow out of the tubes into your collection bucket.
- Allow the parts cleaner to evaporate from the disassembled pump. This process takes about ten minutes.
- Reassemble pump, reconnect hoses, and fill the reservoir with AW46 (hydraulic fluid) or Dexron III (automatic transmission fluid) and purge the system until it’s full. Be sure NOT to mix the two fluids. Only use one type.
Pump Solenoid Test
When your equipment isn't working you may be asking, Is my solenoid bad? Here are step-by-step instructions on how to test your pump solenoid.
How to test your pump solenoid:
- First, Make sure your solenoid is properly grounded. To ground the solenoid, run a small 14 gauge ground wire from the ground on the pump to the screw mounting the solenoid to the motor.
- Make sure you have 12V to the solenoid (usually when looking from the rear it will be the large copper terminal on the left).
- Using a jumper wire, (14 gauge wire 10” long with alligator clips on both ends is easiest) jump from the 12V terminal on the solenoid to the activator post (the small post). You should hear a faint click.
- With a 12V test light, check to see if you have 12V on the copper terminal that connects the solenoid to the motor (usually looking from the rear the copper terminal on the right). If you do have 12V, the solenoid is good, if not the solenoid needs to be replaced.
If the remote functions improperly:
If the solenoid functions improperly:
If the coil functions improperly:
Usually if your coil is not working you will only get movement in one direction.
Step 1. Make sure the pump is grounded
Step 2. Put 12V of power directly to the contact post (the coil only has one post).
Step 3. Take a non-magnetic screwdriver or other metal tool and attempt to stick it to the coil. If the coil is working (magnetized) the metal tool will stick to the end of the coil. If it is not working the magnet is not getting a charge (magnetizing) and the tool will not stick to the coil.