Hay Bale Spike

Q. What is the weight limit of Pierce bale spikes? 

PIERCE bale spikes have a lifting capacity of 2,500 lbs. NOTE: Picking up bales wider than the rear opening of your truck bed may result in truck damage.

Q. What is the difference between the ABS1K and ABS2K? 

The ABS1K hay spear installs directly over a gooseneck ball; in comparison, the ABS2K bolts into the truck bed so you can haul trailers while the spike is mounted. Both units come equipped with removable bale spears.

Q. How long will my bale spike hold up?

With proper maintenance, a 20-year life could be expected. We routinely service PIERCE bale spikes manufactured in the early 90s.

Q. How long does it take to lift a bale typically? 

15 to 20 seconds is typical.

Q. Where do I mount the pump?

The pump comes installed on the driver's side of the bale spike. A pump cover is included for added protection.

Q. What kind of hydraulic fluid do you recommend? 

We recommend Dextron III, but any red Automatic Transmission Fluid will work. We do not recommend using universal tractor fluid in winter weather. See the 

 Hydraulic Pump Maintenance and Troubleshooting page

Q. How often should I maintain the pump?

The pump requires regular maintenance to continue running smoothly. To read more about maintaining your bale spike, check out our Hydraulic Pump Maintenance and Troubleshooting page.

Q. I've noticed the pump runs slower in winter. What should I do?

In freezing weather, moisture can block the intake screen inside the pump tank. To avoid this, clean the pump's filters and change the fluid to eliminate crystallization.

Q. Where are PIERCE bale spikes made?

Our shop is located in Henrietta, Texas, United States, where we fabricate, weld, assemble, and service our bale spikes. 

Maintenance

Maintain your Bucher DC hydraulic pump. follow this timeline and instructions to ensure properly working equipment. 

Pump Maintenance Timeline

Every Two (2) Months:

1. All ground connections should be inspected. Remove any corrosion rust. 
2. Battery cable connections should be inspected for corrosion.
3. All electrical connections at power unit should be inspected for corrosion and cleanliness. Check tightness of nuts on motor stud and motor solenoid.

Every Three (3) Months:

1. Oil level and fluid condition should be checked. 

Every Six (6) Months:

1. Inspect condition of all electrical wiring. Wire should be free from cracks or damage to insulation.
2. Inspect condition of filler/breather cap. If foam is missing or dirty replace the cap.

Every Year:

1. Oil should be changed yearly.

If you suspect that your pump needs more attention, review below on how to flush your pump.

Flush Your Pump

How to determine if you have water in the hydraulic fluid:

• The pump does not build up pressure.
• The hydraulic fluid starts looking milky or cloudy.
• Water will freeze, impeding flow in colder climates.

Flushing your pump:

1. Disconnect the hoses. Place the disconnected hoses into a bucket or drain pan to collect the hydraulic fluid from the cylinder.
   
   
2. Drain the cylinder. In order to drain the cylinder retract and extend the cylinder until all the fluid is removed. The fluid will exit the hoses removed in step 1.
   
   
3. Remove the reservoir and empty the fluid. The reservoir is usually located on the pump.
   
   
4. While you have the reservoir off, use a mild parts cleaner to clean the filters and the inside of the reservoir. Mild parts cleaner can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
   
   
5. Pull the valve out of the pump and clean with parts cleaner as well, flushing the block. The cleaner will flow out of the tubes into your collection bucket.
   
   
6. Allow the parts cleaner to evaporate from the disassembled pump. This process takes about ten minutes.
   
   
7. Reassemble pump, reconnect hoses, and fill the reservoir with AW46 (hydraulic fluid) or Dexron III (automatic transmission fluid) and purge the system until it’s full. Be sure NOT to mix the two fluids. Only use one type.

Pump Solenoid Test

When your equipment isn't working you may be asking, Is my solenoid bad? Here are step-by-step instructions on how to test your pump solenoid.

How to test your pump solenoid:

1. First, Make sure your solenoid is properly grounded.  To ground the solenoid, run a small 14 gauge ground wire from the ground on the pump to the screw mounting the solenoid to the motor.
   
   
2. Make sure you have 12V to the solenoid (usually when looking from the rear it will be the large copper terminal on the left).
   
   
3. Using a jumper wire, (14 gauge wire 10” long  with alligator clips on both ends is easiest) jump from the 12V terminal on the solenoid to the activator post (the small post). You should hear a faint click.
   
   
4. With a 12V test light, check to see if you have 12V on the copper terminal that connects the solenoid to the motor (usually looking from the rear the copper terminal on the right). If you do have 12V, the solenoid is good, if not the solenoid needs to be replaced.

Troubleshooting Tips

If the remote functions improperly:

If the solenoid functions improperly: 

If the coil functions improperly: 

Usually if your coil is not working you will only get movement in one direction.

Step 1. Make sure the pump is grounded

Step 2. Put 12V of power directly to the contact post (the coil only has one post).

Step 3. Take a non-magnetic screwdriver or other metal tool and attempt to stick it to the coil. If the coil is working (magnetized) the metal tool will stick to the end of the coil. If it is not working the magnet is not getting a charge (magnetizing) and the tool will not stick to the coil.